How to Magnetize Miniatures for Transport and Storage

Quick answer

Drill or mark a recess under each base, glue in a miniature magnet with the correct polarity facing down, then line your transport or storage box with a steel sheet so the models snap into place. Test the polarity of every magnet against a known reference before the glue cures, and keep a consistent north-down or south-down rule across the whole army.

Magnetizing miniatures is the cheapest way to stop arms snapping off in a foam tray and to speed up deployment at the table. The process is simple, but it fails for predictable reasons: polarity flipped on one model, glue that never bonded to resin, or a magnet too weak for a heavy metal figure.

This guide walks through the order that works, from checking the base and choosing a magnet size to gluing and setting up a steel-lined storage box. It applies to resin, plastic, and metal figures, including multipart kits where a magnetized base is only the first step.

Prep the base before you touch any glue

Clean the underside of the base with a damp cloth and let it dry fully. Mold release, dust, and finger oils are the main reasons miniature magnets fall off later, especially on resin bases. If the base is hollow, you can either fill it with epoxy putty and drill into that, or glue the magnet directly into the recess with a gap-filling adhesive. A 25mm round plastic slotta base gives you a flat, predictable surface, which is why many kits ship with one.

Decide now whether you are magnetizing only the base or also the torso, arms, and weapons. Base-only magnetization is enough for transport miniatures in a steel-lined box. If you also want swappable arms, plan the magnet sizes before assembly so you are not drilling into a finished paint job.

• Checkpoint: the base underside is clean, dry, and flat enough for full magnet contact.
• Common mistake: gluing onto a glossy or textured surface and assuming the bond will hold.

Match the magnet size to the model's weight

For 28mm heroic scale infantry on a 25mm base, a 3mm diameter by 1mm thick neodymium disc is a common starting point. Lighter resin figures can use 2mm discs, while metal figures, large monsters, or models with a lot of overhang may need a 5mm disc or two smaller magnets side by side. The goal is a firm snap that still lets you lift the model off the steel sheet without flexing the base.

If you are unsure, test with one model before buying a large batch. Place the magnet under the base, set the model on a steel surface, and tilt it gently. If it slides or lifts with almost no resistance, step up a size. If it takes real force to remove, you risk pulling the base apart on a painted figure.

• Checkpoint: one test model holds firm when the box is tilted but releases with a light pull.
• Common mistake: buying one magnet size for every model in the army, from halflings to heavy weapon teams.

Set a polarity rule and keep it

Every magnet has a north and south face, and they only attract one way. Before gluing anything, mark a reference magnet with a dot of paint and decide that the marked face always points down toward the steel sheet. Then stack or line up your working magnets so they all face the same direction. This single habit prevents the most frustrating failure in a magnetization guide: a model that repels the tray instead of sticking to it.

If you are magnetizing arms or weapons for swapping, the rule matters even more. A shoulder magnet that faces the wrong way will push the arm away rather than hold it. Test each pair by hand before the glue sets, and if it repels, flip one magnet before it bonds.

• Checkpoint: every magnet in the batch attracts the reference magnet on the marked face.
• Common mistake: gluing a whole squad, then discovering one model sits upside down in the box.

Glue the magnet and let it cure

Use a gap-filling cyanoacrylate or two-part epoxy for resin and metal, and standard cyanoacrylate for plastic. Apply a small amount to the base recess, drop the magnet in with the correct face down, and press it flush. If the recess is deeper than the magnet, fill the gap with putty or a second thin magnet rather than a thick pool of glue, which cures slowly and can shift.

Let the model sit undisturbed for the full cure time on the adhesive, not just until it feels tacky. A magnet that slides under light finger pressure during a game will eventually come free. Once cured, give each base a gentle twist test on the steel sheet before it goes into the storage box.

• Checkpoint: the magnet sits flush or slightly recessed, with no glue ridge catching on the tray.
• Common mistake: using hot glue or a weak craft adhesive that softens in a warm car.

Build the storage and transport setup

Line a sturdy box, case, or drawer with a flat steel sheet, then place your magnetized models on it. A thin galvanized steel sheet or a magnetic sheet with a steel backing works; a fridge magnet alone is usually too weak for transport miniatures. Leave enough headroom that tall figures, banners, and backpacks do not press against the lid, because downward pressure can shear a base off its magnet.

For units, arrange models in the same footprint they use on the table so unpacking is fast. Keep the heaviest models toward the center of the box and the lightest near the edges, where a dropped case is most likely to shift contents. If you carry multiple factions, label the steel trays so you are not sorting models at the venue.

• Checkpoint: the box closes without touching the tallest model, and nothing slides when you tilt it.
• Common mistake: relying on foam alone after magnetizing, which adds pressure without adding hold.

Handle small parts and upgrade kits

Magnetizing a base is only half the job if your models carry loose gear. Small resin accessories such as pouches, canteens, and separate heads are easy to lose, and a magnetized base will not keep them attached. For those, either glue them permanently or pin them, and reserve magnets for parts you genuinely need to swap between games.

Multipart character kits often include interchangeable heads, which is a good candidate for small magnets if you want variety without buying a second figure. Test the fit before committing: a head with a deep socket may need a thinner magnet than a flat-necked one, and a magnet that sits proud will look wrong on the table.

• Checkpoint: every loose part is either glued, pinned, or intentionally magnetized for swapping.
• Common mistake: magnetizing tiny parts with oversized discs and creating a visible gap at the neck or shoulder.

Maintain the system over time

After a few games, check for models that have started to spin or slide on the steel sheet. That usually means the magnet has loosened, the adhesive has failed, or the base has warped. Re-glue with a fresh layer of gap-filling adhesive rather than adding more glue on top of the old bond. If a base keeps failing, drill a shallow recess so the magnet has mechanical support, not just surface adhesion.

Store the box somewhere dry and out of direct sun. Heat softens some adhesives and can warp thin resin bases, which breaks the flat contact that makes magnetization work. A five-minute inspection before a tournament saves you from discovering a loose unit mid-deployment.

• Checkpoint: no model spins freely on the tray, and every magnet sits flush after a full event.
• Common mistake: ignoring one wobbly base until it fails during a game.

Magnetization steps at a glance

1. Step 1: Clean and check the base: Wipe the underside of the base, confirm it is flat, and decide whether you need a putty filler or a direct glue bond. Checkpoint: no dust, oil, or texture where the magnet will sit.
2. Step 2: Choose the magnet size: Start with a 3mm by 1mm disc for 28mm infantry and step up for metal, heavy, or wide-footprint models. Checkpoint: one test model holds firm but lifts with a light pull.
3. Step 3: Fix your polarity rule: Mark a reference magnet and keep the same face pointing down on every model in the army. Checkpoint: every magnet attracts the reference on the marked face.
4. Step 4: Glue and cure: Use gap-filling cyanoacrylate or epoxy, press the magnet flush, and wait the full cure time before testing. Checkpoint: the magnet sits flush and survives a gentle twist test.
5. Step 5: Line the storage box: Fit a flat steel sheet into a sturdy box, leave headroom for tall models, and arrange units in their table footprint. Checkpoint: nothing shifts when the closed box is tilted.
6. Step 6: Secure small parts: Glue or pin pouches, canteens, and other loose gear, and reserve magnets for parts you actually swap. Checkpoint: no accessory is left loose in the tray.
7. Step 7: Inspect before events: Check for spinning or sliding models, re-glue any loose magnet, and store the box dry and out of direct sun. Checkpoint: every base holds firm after a full event.

Products that work well with a magnetized army

• Colonel Ash Ironside: This kit includes a 25mm round plastic slotta base, with a body, left arm, right arm, and a bionic arm by Jake Schneider, hand cast in high quality resin. The flat slotta base gives you a clean, predictable surface for a base magnet, and the separate arms mean you can decide whether to glue or magnetize the joints before assembly.
• mortar-1-faa743ccb73cb78e0cbff888-1885743">Heavy Mortar: A multi-part 28mm heavy mortar designed and sculpted by Jake Schneider, supplied as a 3D printed kit with crew available separately. A heavier, wider-footprint model like this needs a larger magnet or two smaller ones to stay put in a transport box, so plan the base reinforcement before you glue it down.
• Victorian Ammo Pouches: Nine Victorian Ammo Pouches for 28mm heroic scale troops, a high resolution plastic 3D print recommended for use with Victoria Miniatures Victorian Torsos. Small resin gear like this is easy to lose in transit, so glue or pin it rather than relying on the base magnet to keep it attached.
• Round Canteens: Ten round water canteens for heroic scale miniatures, a high resolution plastic 3D print. These are the kind of small accessories that benefit from permanent attachment, keeping your magnetized storage setup focused on whole figures rather than loose bits.

Magnetizing miniatures comes down to a repeatable order: clean base, right magnet, consistent polarity, proper cure, and a steel-lined box that fits your tallest model. Follow those steps and your transport miniatures will arrive intact, with no snapped arms and no loose gear at the bottom of the case.